Making a Huge Gumpaste Rose

This step-by-step guide will teach you how to produce a stunning, flawless huge gumpaste rose from beginning to end.

Creating gumpste flowers (particularly roses) does not have to be difficult. You only need a strategy, and this gumpaste tutorial will walk you through the process of constructing flowers.

Don’t worry if you’ve been frustrated with producing gumpaste flowers. I’m going to share all of my greatest advice with you. There are certain sugar rose tips and tactics that make it easy and feasible to produce lovely flowers for your cakes.

This page has thorough written instructions, a video, and a printed user guide (and yes thats all free).

This is the first of three posts in a series. When you’ve finished your rose, just go on to the next book on the list. Each position is listed below.

1. Making a Huge Gumpaste Rose (youre here now)
2. How to Paint a Giant Gumpaste Rose
3. Gumpaste Rose Leaves: How to Make and Color Them

To begin, there are several methods for making a rose. I’m going to demonstrate what I do. Ideally, it provides you with a good starting point from which you may adapt to what works best for you.

I’ve included screenshots of the instructions below. I’ve also included the items you’ll need as well as some additional advice. There’s also a narrated movie below so you can watch how it’s manufactured.

There are affiliate links in this post. I earn money as an Amazon Associate by making qualifying purchases.

Let’s get started. Don’t forget to watch the movie at the end to see all of the processes.

Some like to use styrofoam cones, which may be purchased at cake decorating supply shops. None of these stores around me have them in stock, and to be honest, I occasionally forget to order them.

I devised this approach of just utilizing a one-inch styrofoam ball, which works just as well and is much simpler to locate, as well as quite inexpensive.

Then, use flowery tape to connect three 18 gauge wires. The styrofoam balls usually have a hole in the bottom. If yours does not, just poke a hole in it with a skewer or your wires.

(Oh, and try to purchase the more compressed styrofoam balls; they tend to work better. On the supplies list, I’ve included a link to them.)

Then, spray in some hot glue and insert the taped-together wires. Let it to totally firm up.

Again, we’re using styrofoam to keep your bloom from being too heavy.

If you have a pasta roller attachment, I recommend rolling them out at the number five setting. If you don’t have one, use your little fondant roller instead.

Initially, I’ll mention that I normally broaden my petal cutters. I simply slightly separate them.

Use your biggest petal cutter (I know, it seems strange to use the largest cutter), and cut off one petal. This is your buddy.

Thin the edges with a ball tool or a fondant roller using your foam mat (the firmerone).

Insert the petal into the veiner and push.

With a dab of water, attach the petal to the styrofoam ball. Wrap it around the ball and let the cone stick out.

Make adjustments with your fondant tool. It will need some tinkering to get it exactly right.

Just place the flower in a block of foam while working on the following petals.

Using your fondant roller, thin the edges.

They should be veined.

Curl the edges back with a toothpick.

Turn the petal face down on the soft foam and cup the centre a little with a big ball tool or your fondant roller.

Using a little water, wrap the petals around the bud. The curls will face out.

If possible, overlap them slightly and make sure the top of the petals is little higher than the bud you just formed.

Set the flower stem into the foam while you work on the following round.

Thin and vein the edges. Curl the edges with a toothpick, then flip them face down and cup the centre with your ball tool.

Just connect them as you did before. Be careful to connect each petal where the petals you’ve already attached meet.

Attempt to overlap them slightly and make sure the tips of the petals are little higher than the previous batch of petals. (This is vital since the centre of your rose will seem too high, giving it an odd appearance.)

Don’t be concerned about the styrofoam ball’s bottom right now. That will be covered eventually.

After those petals are in place, place your flower in some foam and continue with the next set of petals.

Thinning the margins, veining them, curving the edges, and cupping the centre are the same as for the other petals.

We’re going to take one more step here. Take five teaspoons and arrange your petals on top. Make sure your petals’ curled edges are facing down.

Let the petals on the spoons for around 15 to 20 minutes to harden up a little. But don’t let them entirely dry out.

Next, using a touch of water, connect them to the rose. You don’t need to wet the whole petal, only the bottom and the sides.

Before attaching them, make sure to overlap them and that the tops are level with the row preceding them.

Let your flower to dry somewhat before beginning the last cycle.

Cut out seven petals using the biggest cutter and repeat the previous procedure.

Thin them, vein them, twist the edges, and place them on tablespoons as previously. Let 15 to 20 minutes for them to settle.

Just connect them to your rose, being care to overlap them as you go. At this stage, it’s easier to connect your roses upside down.

The tips of the petals in this row should be a bit lower than the petals in the previous row.

When I connect them while holding the rose upside down, I find that if I just line the tip of the petal up to the bottom of the styrofoam ball, it ends up being approximately the perfect height.

If you go that way, just place some foam or paper towel beneath the rose petals to prevent them from falling too far. This approach, which I prefer, will give your rose a more open appearance.

So you got through it! Yeah! I realize I went into a lot of detail, but I wanted to make it as obvious as possible.

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